Jewellery Pouch

After spending a couple of days untangling my fine chain necklaces, I thought I should find a better way to store them.

A multi-pocket jewellery pouch was the perfect answer, and will also be the answer to all my jewellery storage when I get the time to make some more pouches.

You will need:

1/2 yard for large pocket
FQ for small pocket

small amount of stuffing

ribbon or cord

HOW TO
1) My super complicated way of making a perfect circle- a dinner plate.

you will need to cut two at this size.

2) and two at a different/smaller plate or bowl size. (this would look great if the smaller circles were a different fabric but due to cutting my small ones first, and being too small this is how mine ended up.)

3) fold one of the large circles in half so you can find the centre line.

4) measure in from the edges 1.5 inches and stitch 2 button holes.

5) right sides together, pin and sew around the edges, leaving a turning cap in each.

6) top stitch around both to close the turning gap.

7) on the larger one, you will need to sew two more top stitch lines, to create a casing for the drawstring.

Using different points on your foot, or measurement plate you will be able to keep this consistent around the whole circle.

8) fold both circles into quarters so you can find the centre point. line these up and pin the smaller circle into the middle of the large circle (make sure the button holes on the large circle are on the opposite side as the little circle)

9) grab your next sized fancy tool to make a smaller sized circle again, in the middle of your little one, trace around it with a washable fabric pen.

10) stitch most of the way around this line, leaving a little opening to insert a small amount of stuffing, then continue sewing around.

this only needs to be a small amount of stuffing, not firmly stuffed.

11) I do apologies that I did not take a photo of this next step, but I drew 6 different lines at even points around the circle holding the stuffing.

I stitched from this line to the edge of the little circle. creating 6 small pocket.

12) insert ribbon or cord around the casing, using 1 button hole as entry and exit both times.

And you’re DONE!

It's that SIMPLE!

Long Awaited Tool Belt Tutorial!

Finally I have had a chance to blog the tool belt tutorial!

it was mainly a matter of needing to make a tool belt for someone as well as document the progress in one go that had been stopping my motivation before.

Now I am prepared for our friends 2 year olds birthday.

You will need:

belt main: 29"x 6.5" of fabric and interfacing
Pocket: 9" x 4.5" of fabric x2
loops: 1.5" x 17"
Elastic: 9"
Snaps or Velcro

HOW TO

1) fold the belt main in half length ways with right sides together and interfacing on the wrong side of both sides, sew all the way around leaving a turning gap on the long side.

2) snip corners, turn and top stitch all the way around.

3) place to 2 pocket pieces right side together, sewing all the way around leaving a turning gap on one of the short sides.

4) snip corners, turn and top stitch ONLY the side with the turning gap.

5) fold the top stitched side up 3" to create a pocket shape.

top stitch up the side, across the top and down the side. (very similar to our mini purse tutorial)

6)Fold loops fabric in half and sew only up the long side.

7) turn and thread the elastic through. you might need to use a safety pin to help slide it through, and also to pin the ends securely with the fabric so you don't loose the elastic tail.

8) placing the pocket 11" from the right side of the belt, pin it in place just above the opening.

and also pin one side of the elastic loop under the left side of the pocket.

9) securely sew in place where you have just pinned.

10) This part is easier if you have the desire tools with you, I bought this pack from big w for just $10.

Work out which order you want the tools, and place them under the elastic loops to work out fit.

make sure they are a tight fit, but still plenty of elastic movement.

11) stitch all tool loops in place.

12) now you need to tuck the end of the fabric in around the elastic, without loosing the elastic end. and top stitch this end.

13) in the same way as the sewn down loops, make sure you have the right fit for your last tool, but this tool fits better with a snap or Velcro because of its handle.

14) place snaps 2" apart of the right side of the tool belt for size adjustment, and one on the left side. use a strip of Velcro if this is your preferred method.

Don't forget a closure for the centre of the pocket.

And you’re DONE!

It's that SIMPLE!

How great would this look with on of our worker dress up vests, available from our store.

Simple Personalised Stationary

If you are anything like our household, with our 3 boys, you will have 3 of everything.

This can get a little confusing with textas and crayons when they are all drawing at once and they are scattered all over the floor.

And when one child is a bit younger and a culprit of "dotting his textas" of course the other two children don't want their colours to end up wrecked.

So I simply use some of the million stickers we have in the house, sticking with one theme for each child

And a piece of sticky tape wrapped around each to provide a bit more protection and "stick".

Makes cleaning up heaps easier and each child knows exactly which colours are theirs.

More PJ Eaters- With Tutorial Tips

After my first PJ eater, I was hooked. Not only was it a big hit with the birthday boy, but it was also really simple!

Here are a couple more I have made for Birthday presents.

If you remember, I altered the body of the pattern so that I could insert a cushion insert, this allows for easier washing, and also that the insert can be replaced if ever needed.

I did keep the hand and feet pattern the same, but I wanted to offer you some tips on how I sew it together, as I have heard of a couple of people having trouble getting the curved sole to fit in the leg part.
This not only works for these feet but any curve and straight edge combination.


HOW TO:
1) Line up the straight edge on the curved piece, where you would like the seam, then move it over 1cm more.

2) Start sewing from where you originally wanted the seam, as we will need that extra 1cm to actually create the seam.

Make sure the curved piece is the piece you have positioned on top while you are at the machine.

3) slowly sew around the edge, moving just the curved piece as you go, making sure the edges still line up.

4) Sew right up to where you started and finish off.

5) When you now look at the straight piece, it may not line up completely on what will be our seam edge- but just imagine sewing that first and trying to make the curve piece not fit, as it often makes the straight piece too big and requires a lot of pinning, adjusting and frustration.

6) Matching up the side edges so they are straight- but not necessarily meeting, sew from your last finished point straight down the edge.

And you're DONE!

It's that SIMPLE!